CHIANG MAI (PART 2)

TWO FESTIVAL IN ONE: LOY KRATHONG AND YI PENG

#attimidiordinariafotografia

A boy places a Loy Krathong in the waters of the Chao Praya River - Chiang Mai, Thailand.

Two Loy Krathong float near a chair used to put them into river - Chiang Mai, Thailand.

Two guys look at each other before putting their Loy Krathong in the river - Chiang Mai, Thailand.

A girl prepares flower necklaces and other components of Loy Krathong at her stall - Chiang Mai, Thailand.

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During my stay in Chiang Mai, I was fortunate enough to witness a very special time of year when two festivals are celebrated in the space of a few days: Loy Krathong and Yi Peng. The former is celebrated throughout Thailand, the latter, however, only in the northern part of the country - evidence of the differences and autonomy maintained until the last century that still survive culturally today. Although their origins are uncertain and various legends have sprung up around them over time, the roots of these two important moments seem to draw from Hinduism and the strong influence that Indian culture has had for many centuries on the whole of South-East Asia.

Usually, the dates fall in the month of November to coincide with the end of the monsoon season, but in both cases it is the moon and its phases that determine the exact day they will be held each year. Specifically, for Loy Krathong, the date corresponds with the full moon of the twelfth month of the lunar calendar; for Yi Peng, with the second full moon of the Lanna calendar. Given the importance of the celebrations, in Chiang Mai, although the night of the full moon that affects these celebrations is obviously the same, two consecutive days are dedicated to them. During the Loy Krathong, homage is paid to Phra Mae Khongka, the goddess of water, rivers, streams and all reservoirs in general - the Thai version of Ganga, the Hindu goddess who personifies the waters of the Ganges - and to Buddha. To mark the occasion, small boats made of logs and banana leaves - 'krathong' means 'small boat' and 'loy' means 'float' - adorned with different kinds of flowers, incense sticks and candles, are placed in all streams. In general, the fundamental importance of waterways is celebrated, and it is believed that by letting go of these 'little boats' along the river, one also lets go of the bad things of the year, and can thus start again with joy, better energy and good intentions. It is interesting, in this regard, that in some cases freshly cut hair or nails are also included in these compositions to symbolise this leaving behind of the 'old'.

In Yipeng, however, the great protagonists are the lanterns. During these evenings, many lanterns are left flying in the air with the idea of leaving behind negative things and bad luck. The lanterns, however, are not only those that float in the sky, but also and above all those that are hung almost everywhere around the city. Beginning in the weeks before the celebration, lanterns made of coloured rice paper are seen every day multiplying on light wires, in front of temples and shops, in the middle of intersections. They can be of different sizes, from the most common small ones, to the huge ones, located at neuralgic points of the city.

In general, what is certainly central is the use of light. In addition to the brightness emanating from the Loy Krathong, the lanterns and the constant fireworks, the city is filled with tealights and candles everywhere, providing a truly unique visual effect thanks to the contrast created by the dark evening sky.

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A boy throws 'fireworks' from the shore of Chao Praya - Chiang Mai, Thailand.

A boy waits for his lantern to be ready to float in the sky - Chiang Mai, Thailand.

Two boys unload a truck loaded with rice paper lanterns - Chiang Mai, Thailand.